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1:15 pm
Mon 1-25-10
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Finn Kisch
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Splitting this and moving it to the modeling forum…
First thing I do is fit the join to see how the parts go together. This is especially important for ball-and-socket joints where you've got a wide range of movement. The final position of the model dictates where you're going to sink the pin.
Next, drill about 2mm into one part or the other, as close to the center of the join as you can eyeball. With a ball-and-socket, I like to drill the socket side first. With other types of joins it generally doesn't matter. Your bit and wire should be exactly the same diameter. This will allow you to push the pin in easily, but it should sit straight and not rattle around.
Drop some pinning wire into the hole and cut it almost flush to the surface. Put a dot of paint (I use red) on the end of the pin. Fit the part to the other part however you want it to go. The pin will leave a little dot to show you where to drill the other hole. Pull out your marking pin with a pair of tweezers.
Now drill the second hole to 2mm, cut a 4mm piece of wire, dry-fit to make sure it's flush and in the right position, and then glue everything together.
I personally use brass wire for my pins. You can get it at any hardware store, and it's more forgiving than rigid brass rod. Larger joins (like warjacks) get a thicker gauge than little infantry joins. I use EndGame's Maxi-Cure glue.
If you bring your gear to the next paint day I'll give you a demo.
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Finn Kisch
Forum Overlord, EndGame co-owner
Red is my Overlord voice
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3:03 pm
Mon 1-25-10
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David Greenwood
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Thanks for posting this. I've been trying to use wire I had laying around – mainly paper clips. I'll get some brass wire and see how it goes. I've also usually tried to go further than 2 mm.
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9:28 pm
Mon 1-25-10
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Douglas Graves
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I'm pretty new to all of this myself, so I'm not sure I can be of much help on doing such things "properly". I watched that P3 Core Techniques dvd, and that's essentially where I learned all of my (limited) modeling skills, well that and trial and error.
As for lining things up and what not, I have the good fortune of working as a professional body piercer for 6+ years on my side, so lining things up hasn't presented much of a problem thus far. So far, I have been drilling about 1/4″ or so deep, totally depending on what I'm pinning.
I am not really much of a fan of having to force the pin into a hole that is snug enough to require considerable force (yeah yeah Frank, TWSS), because the stuff I've been pinning thus far is somewhat fragile and precarious (damn you Cryx for looking so cool with all of your fine pointy appendages). So I guess just make sure you are using the same size bit and pin and all will be well as long as you don't go crazy and jerk the drill or whatever around a lot while making the whole.
I've used regular old super glue, which pales in comparison to the extra hold Maxi-Cure Endgame-labelled glue that these folks sell up at the shop—that stuff RULES, so now I use that. For pinning stuff, I've been using the P3 pins just because that's what I happened to buy. Thus far, I am of the impression that their bits suck, but the pins have been fine. If you screw up, green stuff will hook you up. I've been using gray stuff, which is actually somewhat difficult to discern from the bare metal, so when I run out I'm switching over to green stuff
As for pinning stuff together (holding the two pieces together and pinning straight through), I've only had a reason to do this once so far (pinning Lich Lord Terminus's wings to his torso, the left wing simply didn't have the purchase anywhere else to make this happen in an effective way). Seriously, if you're rocking Cryx, DO NOT attempt Terminus until you are feeling like a bad ass. He is incredibly difficult to put together as a beginner, and so far he has cost me many hours of frustration and a lot of foul language. He's mostly done and he looks soooooo sick, but be prepared for things to get emotional.
For online articles, I've just been getting by on the Brushthralls stuff. Their Cygnar Battlebox in 10 days actually has a section on pinning that you may find useful: http://blog.brushthralls.com/?…..ge_id=2765
Anyway, that's pretty much all of my wisdom on the topic at present—well, that and I'll probably never pin without a power tool again. I'd be really interested in what others have to say on this topic though.
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11:07 am
Tue 1-26-10
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Finn Kisch
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Paper clips are too brittle – you can probably get away with baling wire, but IMO brass is the way to go.
As for depth, you don't really get any benefit out of going deeper than 2mm with a 22 gauge pin (22 is what I use for most infantry, btw). For larger gauges (e.g., 18 gauge for pinning warjacks) you can go a bit deeper.
Sometimes you'll be constrained by the model itself. Some of the Cryx fiddly bits don't give you much room to sink a pin. The same is true for some of the flush-mounted shoulder joints and accessories you'll find throughout the Privateer range. Just do the best you can.
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Finn Kisch
Forum Overlord, EndGame co-owner
Red is my Overlord voice
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1:28 pm
Tue 1-26-10
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Adan T
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How about piano wire? I brought some, along with corresponding sized bits from Ace Hardware in Berkeley (where they also have lots of cool, patterned plasticard). I bought it for my really small joins. Now, everyone knows I don't do it very often, but when I have, I've liked the results.
My biggest problem is having the bit slide around when I'm trying to start the hole… Especially in the smaller pieces.
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 Lieutenant, Ordo Pacificus chapter, 40K Fight Club
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2:28 pm
Tue 1-26-10
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Finn Kisch
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Dunno about piano wire. I use guitar strings as antennae and hoses so I reckon it's probably fine.
For starting the hole, a diamond-tipped scribing tool is the best but you can use the tip of a sharp exacto to gouge out a little divot.
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Finn Kisch
Forum Overlord, EndGame co-owner
Red is my Overlord voice
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7:43 pm
Thu 1-28-10
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Chris Ruggiero
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Post edited 3:44 am – Fri 1-29-10 by Chris Ruggiero
Adan,
I occasionally use a slightly smaller bit to drill a pilot hole for larger diameter pins. I also use the blunt extacto method, or a nail of the right size I have laying around to make a divot. I think it's fairly important to rest your elbows on the table to give you a more stable base and will cause less movement.
Good luck.
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Chris Ruggiero: Commando Supremo of Flames of War, First Lord of Battletech
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6:08 am
Fri 1-29-10
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Michael Kan
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I subscribe to the same methodology. I use a scribe to make a small pilot hole and then use a larger bit. For large holes, I'll drill a smaller pilot hole and then expand.
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4:12 pm
Fri 1-29-10
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Landon Graham
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I'm so new to this aspect of modeling that I have no idea what it's for! I've glued together a ton of models and don't have a lot of problems with models falling apart. How much stability does pinning add to a glued joint?
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7:24 pm
Fri 1-29-10
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Michael Kan
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Pinning is used to strenthen a join, particularly joins that are weight bearing. Plastics rarely need pins because a) they are pretty light and b) model glue actually welds the two pieces together. Metal on metal joins on the other hand can be tricky. A metal pin helps not only to increase the surface area of the join but also provides a pin and socket arrangement instead of just flat on flat contact. Not the greatest explaination in the world, but I thought I'd try to give you an answer.
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